Awliyaw: the Largest and Oldest Tree in Ethiopia?
2/18/00
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RELAYED TEXT STARTS HERE:
Title: Awliyaw: the Largest and Oldest Tree in Ethiopia?
Source: Ethiopia Online
Status: Copyright 2000, contact source for permission to reprint
Date: February 18, 2000
Byline: Dr. Alula Pankhurst
In southern Wello, there are still a few areas left where indigenous
trees survive in pockets of remaining forests. Recently, there has
been a debate about the extent and the nature of deforestation, and a
questioning of received wisdom about increasing deforestation. The
view that 40 percent of the Ethiopian highlands were forested has
been questioned by a number of researchers. However, we should not
loose sight of the steady loss of forests with indigenous species.
The plantations around settlements are made up largely of imported
eucalyptus trees brought from Australia only a hundred years ago.
Fortunately, however, some indigenous forests have survived to this
day, although one may wonder how long this will continue.
Along with colleagues from Addis Ababa University and the University
of Sussex, I recently had the opportunity to visit some forests in
Wello. A highlight of our trip was a visit to Anabe, one of the few
forests of Podocarpus, locally known as Zegba, remaining in southern
Wello. In an article on the history of forest management in Wello,
published in the Journal of Ethiopian Studies in 1998, Professor
Bahru notes that Anabe was 'discovered' relatively recently, in 1978,
when a forester was looking for a nursery site. In imperial days the
area fell under the category of balabbat land before it was converted
into a madbet of the Crown Prince. After its 'discovery' it was
declared a protected forest.
Anabe is some 30 kms to the west of the town of Gerba, which is on
the Kombolcha - Bati road. Until recently the rough road from Gerba
was completed only up to the market town of Adame, from which it took
three hours' walk to the forest. A road built by local people through
an Employment Generation Scheme organised by Concern with European
Union funding now makes the forest accessible in a four-wheel drive
vehicle. The forest is tucked away near steep cliffs and is invisible
until you arrive within a couple of kilometres. It is a surprise to
find a beautiful forest in such a densely populated area, close to
intensely irrigated fields. Not far away is a nursery site. One of
the two forest guards and a nursery site worker accompanied us in the
forest. They claimed that in the past barley, oats and sorghum used
to be cultivated within the forest area and that a Mislene or
representative of the imperial regime, named Abegaz Amede used to
provide tribute from the area.
Anabe is one of the few remaining forests of Podocarpus. The size of
the forest has been estimated at 53 ha. In An Illustrated Guide to
the Trees and Shrubs in the Red Cross Project Areas in Wello (1989),
Prof. Mesfin Tadesse mentions an Amharic saying about the forest,
which Prof. Bahru translates in his article as: "Anabe is said to be
growing old and greying, a solitary individual could now cross it
without fear." This may suggest, as Prof. Bahru notes, that the
forest has become denuded, although it may also refer to claims that
shifta, outlaws, lived there in the past.
In the central part of the forest there are areas with only giant
Podocarpus trees. Unfortunately during tree planting campaigns under
the Derg foreign trees, notably pines, have been planted in the
forest. Though planting a barrier of fast-growing trees on the
outskirts of the forest may have been useful to protect it, the
planting of exotic trees within the forest detracts from its former
originality.
Podocarpus are one of the most beautiful trees of Ethiopia. The
combination of lush dark green mature foliage with light green tips
of the new growth give the tree a distinctive variegated appearance.
In his book on Indigenous Trees of Ethiopia Prof. Legesse Negash
notes that the scientific term Podocarpus falcatus has now gained
currency over the former term Podocarpus gracilior which alluded to
the tree's elegance and gracefulness. As an evergreen with a dense
crown, the Zegba has many ecological advantages. It provides cool
shade and nourishment for birds and small mammals and is a preferred
home for Colobus monkeys that eat the fruit and shelter in it. Indeed
we saw some of these beautiful monkeys which have become a rarity in
so much of the country since their black and white skins are
illegally sought after for making carpets.
The Zegba is known commercially as Podo or East African Yellow Wood,
and is the only representative of the family Podocarpaceae in
Ethiopia. It is often found in old forests along with indigenous
junipers, known as Ted. Unfortunately the Zegba does not reproduce
easily, though Prof. Legesse has pioneered ways of improving
germination. Because Podocarpus is classified as a "high class soft-
wood" it has been a prime source of timber and is used for cupboards,
shelves, panels, making matchsticks etc. In the middle of the past
century it was the number one commercial species in Ethiopia,
accounting for 60% of production, and some saw mills specialised only
in Zegba production. Not surprisingly, it is estimated that just
under one percent of the original Podo forests have survived.
Podocarpus oils are said to have medicinal properties in curing
gonorrhoea. In their book on Medicinal Plants and Enigmatic Health
Practices of Northern Ethiopia Dawit Abebe and Ahadu Ayehu also note
that the powder from the bark is used for curing headaches.
The special tree in the middle of Anabe forest is called Awliyaw by
the local people, a term suggestive of its revered status (Weliy
means prophet in the Islamic tradition and Awliya often refers to a
Zar possession cult). Legend has it that it existed before all the
other trees, when the land was barren and that it gave rise to all
the other trees. There is also a story that a man attempted to climb
the tree to catch a queen bee, and retreated when he was confronted
by a snake. The man is said to have died within three days, for
having disrespected the sanctuary.
This tree was estimated by Prof. Mesfin to be about 12.5 metres in
circumference and about 4 metres in diameter. True enough, when we
measured the tree, we found it to be 12.7 metres in circumference. Is
this then the largest tree in the Ethiopia? The tree is said to be 63
metres high. Is this figure correct? Has anyone seen a taller tree in
this country? Forestry reports from the 1940s suggest a maximum
height of 50 metres for Zegba trees, whereas reports in the 1990s
suggest a maximum of 35 metres.
How old is Awliyaw? It is said to be over 700 hundred years old. This
may seem incredible, but studies of old trees in other parts of the
world mention exceptional cases of trees that have surpassed a
millennium and even cases of trees, notably yews, that may be up to
1,400 years old. In his beautiful book Meetings with Remarkable
Trees, Thomas Pakenham depicts an example of an oak that was around
at the time of William the Conqueror in 1066. If the suggested age is
correct, Awliyaw would have been around before the restoration of the
Solomonic Dynasty in 1270!
The are many beautiful indigenous species in Ethiopia and still a
number of exceptional forests. The efforts of the Ethiopia Heritage
Trust at promoting indigenous trees in the park on Entoto are
commendable, and we need more awareness of, and commitment to, this
aspect of Ethiopia's natural heritage. It is sad that such a
venerable tree as Awliyaw is so little known. Apart from a photograph
of a 'human chain' around the ancient tree published by Prof. Mesfin
in an academic article and in a report for the Ethiopian Red Cross, I
have not come across any other photographs of the tree, let alone a
description in tourist guides. Was this because Anabe forest has been
fairly inaccessible? Will the new road result in more interest in the
oldest living heritage of Ethiopia? In a country in which
deforestation is such a pressing concern, surely this exceptional
example of natural beauty deserves more celebration.