Copyright 2000, Environmental News Network
December 28, 2000
By John Roach

Red Rock Canyon in Nevada is a popular climbing destination on BLM land.

Rock climbers insist the more difficult route up a mountain is the better route. They just don't want to die in the process.

To play it safe, they put protection in the rocks they climb.

Much of the protection is categorized as “fixed anchor” — equipment that is left in place to secure climber and safety rope to the rock while the climber goes up and down.

As has been the case for more than 70 years, some of the fixed anchor protection gets left on the rock long after climbers return to the civilized world.

As rock climbing grows in popularity, some environmentalists argue that the proliferation of fixed anchors degrades and harms the landscape. They want them banned from designated wilderness areas.

“You can’t separate climbing from the use of fixed anchors,” said Sam Davidson, a policy analyst for the Access Fund. “If you are going to allow climbing, you have to allow for some sort of fixed anchor use.”

The group says there is no scientific evidence to support the environmental degradation claims. Besides, they say, few “fixed anchors” are actually left behind.

The Bureau of Land Management heeded the rancor between the two user groups as it prepared its final rule on activities in 5.5 million acres of designated wilderness under its jurisdiction.

In the end, the agency punted on a final decision for fixed anchors.

The 900-foot Fisher Towers area in Utah provides a challenge for technical rock climbers and photographers in quest of the perfect scenic shot.

“The BLM has decided to ‘reserve’ for the future, and therefore postpone for now, any regulatory action on the installation of such anchors,” according to a Dec. 14 agency statement on fixed-anchor rules.

The agency did recognize rock climbing as a legitimate use of designated wilderness areas under its jurisdiction and permitted the use of fixed anchors already in place.

Wilderness areas that fall under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Forest Service have met similar controversy over fixed anchors. A special committee was convened to resolve the issue.

While the committee disbanded earlier this year without reaching a consensus, the Forest Service is expected to issue a final rule by Jan. 15, 2001.

The Access Fund hopes that climbing, and thus the use of some fixed anchors, will be recognized as a legitimate use of all wilderness areas. Error: Unable to read footer file.