Ecuador battles to preserve spell of the 'enchanted isles'
The delicate environment of the Galapagos Islands is coming under increasing threat, particularly from illegal fishing. But protecting the archipelago is no easy task, writes Nicholas
Moss
Copyright 2001 The Financial Times
August 9, 2001
By NICHOLAS MOSS
A Navy air patrol was the first to spot the three boats fishing illegally within the Pacific Ocean marine reserve of the Galapagos Islands, 625 miles west of the Ecuadorean coast. Within minutes, a Navy vessel and the national park boat were launched and the fishermen arrested.
This incident was one of several last month that underline the many threats to the "enchanted isles", where 19th century naturalist Charles Darwin was inspired to write his theory of evolution.
The men who were arrested had set sail from Ecuador's main fishing port, Manta, to catch tuna. Last year tuna was in such abundance that the fish sparked a trade dispute between Mexico and Ecuador. But climatic changes have meant warmer waters and scarce stocks near the mainland. By contrast, fishing around Galapagos offers easy pickings - especially when the illegal industrial vessels use long lines, indiscriminately netting tuna, sharks and turtles.
"The captains know they face only a few days' prison or ridiculously low fines, so they risk entering the marine reserve to avoid returning home empty-handed," said Fernando Espinoza, secretary-general of the Charles Darwin Research Station.
Later this month, Ecuador's presidency is expected to amend some laws specific to the archipelago. These may increase penalties for the illegal activities of industrial fishermen from outside Galapagos as well as the flouting of restrictions by local small-scale fishermen.
Many people say these changes cannot come quickly enough.
A fortnight before the Ecuadorean crews were captured, fishermen from Colombia and Costa Rica were caught fishing for sharks. Hundreds of shark fins were found stored in freezers, with dozens of sharks trailing on long lines. Three other boats escaped.
Fishing for sharks is illegal in Galapagos. "The tiny populations of endemic species would otherwise quickly become extinct, and sharks in general play an essential role in the marine ecosystem," said Ruth Elena Ruiz, project director at environmental organisation Fundacion Natura.
Such knowledge counts for little against promises of big money to satisfy Asian appetites. It was what motivated another violation of Galapagos last month when 15 sea lions washed up on shore. The mammals had been castrated - in parts of Asia their sexual organs are considered aphrodisiacs.
The attack outraged the local population, which has not been exempt from criticism about its own impact on the delicate environment. Many families came to Galapagos during the 1950s to assert Ecuadorean sovereignty. In recent years, the number of economic migrants has ballooned despite inadequate drinking water and sewage systems.
The majority of the 18,000 inhabitants seeks its living from fishing. Last November, protests against quotas on sea cucumbers and lobsters turned violent. This year, however, local fishermen have co-operated more with regulations, said Anita Sancho, from Traffic, a World Wildlife Fund partner, which tracks international wildlife trade.
Last month's incidents prompted some international observers to question Ecuador's ability to safeguard the archipelago. President Gustavo Noboa reacted angrily to suggestions that an international committee would be better placed to administer Galapagos. The Andean nation said the recent arrests of illegal fishermen demonstrate that it is in greater control. Environment minister Lourdes Luque said Galapagos is considered among the world's best-administered national parks.
But protecting the islands is not easy. "You must realise this isn't a Caribbean island," Mrs Luque said. "The Galapagos marine reserve, which runs 40 miles around the archipelago, is the same size as Ecuador's continental territory."
The situation should improve with a Dollars 12m loan from the Inter-American Development Bank, which is expected this month, to set up satellite and radar monitoring. The 80 boats, which in 1999 took 60,000 tourists to visit the blue-footed boobies, marine iguanas and other unique flora and fauna, will be fitted with identifying transmitters. Any pirate vessel would be quickly recognisable.
At least that is the plan. Galapagos has not been immune to accusations of corruption and police or armed forces involvement in illicit activities. There is also a sense of no single authority really being in charge.
"There are too many institutions working in an unco-ordinated manner," said Mrs Luque. That was made clear in January when the oil tanker Jessica ran aground near San Cristobal.
For a few days nothing was done until after the hull was pierced during storms, allowing more than 200,000 gallons of diesel and fuel to leak into the ocean, threatening an ecological disaster. A contingency plan to respond to another spill, fire or a volcanic eruption on one of the islands is still being formulated.
In December, Unesco is expected to classify the Galapagos marine reserve as a world natural heritage site. The land mass already enjoys such status.
There is optimism that the declaration will bring more funding and attention to the archipelago, which in turn could help Ecuador fulfil its promise to protect this "jewel of nature" for future generations.